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Learning Center. Dormant oil refers more to when the oil has traditionally been applied rather than what it is made of. Newer dormant oil formulations are typically refined from petroleum oil, such as mineral oil. Unlike home remedies, they also contain an emulsifier to help water mix with the oil, which will provide more complete coverage of plant surfaces. Dormant oil may also be labeled as horticultural, superior or all-seasons oil; keep reading for more on this. The oil covers leaf and limb surfaces, suffocating insects and some insect eggs, which reduces harmful insect populations.
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A: Horticultural oil is used for spraying trees and shrubs when leaves are absent during the winter. Horticultural oils, sometimes called dormant oil or even dormant spray, have a very specific viscosity or thickness that makes them effective in killing pests. When spraying trees, fruit trees and shrubs make sure the entire plant is covered with horticultural oil from top to bottom Neem oil is used primarily during the growing season when leaves and the offending insects are present.
Neem oil is a bit trendy right now. And it is plant-based rather than petroleum-based which for some is important. One major difference between neem oil and horticultural oil is the toxicity of neem oil toward some insects. Horticultural oil is not toxic on its own. It relies on suffocating insects for control. Remember, just like many organic pest control chemicals, neem oil is nondiscriminatory in what it kills.
It cannot recognize a good insect from a bad insect. You direct the spray toward pests you want to control or food that you want to protect. This is also true of horticultural oils, which, unlike neem oil, is frequently applied when leaves and fruit are not present. Neem oil has been promoted for disease control. A little-known fact is that horticultural oils will control nearly all of the same diseases as neem oil. Similarly, horticultural oils can be applied when leaves and fruit are present as long as temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Personally, I have never found neem oil particularly effective in killing pests although I do use it in rotation with soaps and other organic pest controls. I worry a little bit that there is a wide variation in the quality of neem oils being produced and available on the market.
Horticultural oils are pretty much all the same. Stay with name brands of neem oil. Q: Our Bermuda grass lawn is covered with little mounds of dirt. What do I do? A: These mounds appear in lawns after a long rain or if the soil has been flooded. Those mounds of dirt are excavations from earthworms. We also see it in soils that are compacted for the same reason. There are many earthworms in our soils, particularly where plants are growing.
They provide a lot of benefit to the soil and recycle nutrients from decaying plants and very small animals like insects. They also create air and water channels in the soil. The only way they do that is by digging these channels to the open air.
In cases like these, people are more likely to ask how to get rid of earthworms. These mounds will eventually disappear. If the problem persists and it does bother you, aerate the lawn with a commercial core aerifier and dethatch it.
Q: I am new to this climate and want to plant two apple trees in my yard: one for eating and one for cider. Do you have any experience growing Dabinett apple trees or other apples indicated for USDA zones in this climate? I ask because I want apples that produce the right kind of fruit. A: All apple tree varieties will grow here.
Many will even produce fruit here. But there are only a few that will produce high-quality fruit here. Picking the right terroir is the reason why some wine grapes are better suited to specific agroclimatic regions than others.
For instance, in Las Vegas we focus on the warm climate reds and a few warm whites, with cool season wine grapes not producing the right balance of acids and sugars. Of these warm climate reds, it is still too hot for the best quality. The same concept, terroir, applies to fruit quality and apples. First off, our hot desert location is not the best for apples to begin with. It is better suited to apricots, peaches, plums and their relatives.
However, it is best suited to pomegranates, figs and dates. There are only a handful of apples I would recommend for this climate regarding flavor. Some produce here better than others, and still others produce better fruit than most.
I would recommend finding an apple that grows well here and produces quality fruit that you like. Otherwise, what you are doing is experimental and chances are most will not produce the fruit quality you would like. There is a possibility some might but chances might be slim. Regarding Dabinett, an English variety, you are taking a risk. I love this kind of risk but be aware of the downside in trying.
Be aware that, particularly with apples, it may take three to four years before you get decent fruit. Q: My dwarf oleanders have quit flowering. Should I cut the flower pods off now or never? If yes, how far down the stem should I cut? Oleanders are planted for aesthetics. Cut the seed pods off if you want or leave them still attached.
It will make no difference to the plant. Some of the dwarf oleanders are tender to cold winter temperatures and may or may not freeze back to the ground depending on the winter and your location. Wait to prune them until mid-February. Every three to four years, cut three or four of the largest stems in diameter to the ground.
This will cause them to renew the plant from the base. Trimming with hedge shears is never needed and should be avoided. Q: I recently saw an article about cactus in which the author discussed how to plant a cactus in a new pot.
Darned if I can tell when looking at mine. A: I have no idea what the front of a cactus is. I could make some wisecracks about it but I think the author is telling people to orient the cactus with the same side toward the sun to reduce problems from sunburn.
Like many plants, cactuses grow differently on sides facing extremes in climate. The top, south and west sides are conditioned for high light intensities.
They have a skin that is thicker with more protection provided by the plant in a reaction to high light intensities. The north and east sides are less protected. If the north side of a cactus is oriented toward the south, this side may sunburn as a result. A: Yes, water continuously hitting the trunk can be damaging to the trunk and possibly lead to disease. Eventually, the tree may need to be replaced if the damage is severe.
I understand why your gardener responded like he did since it is common, but, yes, the water should be diverted from the trunk or the tree irrigated in some other manner. Bob Morris is a horticulture expert living in Las Vegas and professor emeritus for the University of Nevada. Visit his blog at xtremehorticulture.
Send questions to Extremehort aol. Plants are not expecting normal low temperatures early or late in the winter season and are not prepared for them. A major key when converting to lower water use is to use as few plants of a larger size as possible.
The fewer plants you use and still accomplish your goals, the better. Some composts are rich and full of nutrients. Other times they are not so rich, and the addition of a fertilizer might be needed. There is some discussion in academic circles whether crops grown in vertical farms aimed at feeding the world should be the higher-value horticultural crops or staple crops like multiple crops of wheat but with to day turnovers.
The use of grass lawns speaks to a lack of creativity and underappreciation of where we live. The best time to plant winter-hardy trees and shrubs is during the fall, from around the end of September through mid-November. The cycad, aka sago palm, is considered an ancient representative of its kind and has changed very little over the millennia.
It is, like pine trees, a true gymnosperms. Ripening means the sugar content increases as they reach maturity. December and January are the usual times we see citrus damaged by vermin.
Pest control professionals and homeowners throughout Florida and the southeastern US are seeking effective options that are safer for people and the environment than some conventional synthetic pesticides. There is also rising interest in organic gardening, which relies on natural pesticides. Natural or biological pesticides, also called biopesticides, can be used by themselves or in combination with conventional pesticide programs as valuable rotation options, thus delaying or preventing onset of resistance caused by repeated use of the same chemical controls. This publication describes natural products for use in residential landscapes and gardens. They are generally less toxic to nontarget organisms and the environment and, when used correctly, can be effective tools for plant protection.
Liang, W. (). Impact of horticultural mineral oil and synthetic pesticides on arboreal and soil fauna biodiversity within citrus orchard ecosystems.
Whit oil is great for organically controlling pests, like these aphids. White oil is among the safest and most effective organic ways of controlling many sap sucking and leaf chewing pests in the garden. The best thing about white oil is that you can make it yourself! Put the oil and washing up liquid into a jar or bottle. Label the concentrated mixture and store it in a cool, dry place. White oil is a fantastic organic method for controlling pests like scale and aphids. Dilute the concentrated white oil by adding two dessert spoons about 20mL to one litre of water. Mix well and add to a sprayer. Cover both sides of the leaves and all of the bark. White oil will control scale, aphids , mealy bug, citrus leaf miner and caterpillars.
As early as , kerosene-soap emulsions were used for control of aphids and other soft-bodied insects. Since then more highly refined oils with most of the sulfur compounds removed have been developed and field tested with more effective results. The winter season is the time to apply dormant oil sprays to plants, for the control of insects and disease. Covering the dormant stems of a plant with a highly refined oil such as Lilly Miller Spray Oil suffocates overwintering insect eggs and fungal spores.
Oil-based pesticides are an effective and ecologically friendly way to handle many garden insect pests and even some diseases.
Dear Ruth,. I missed the first spraying dormant oil for my fruit trees. When should I spray them and what do I use? Thanks in advance for any advice on this matter. Talking about fruit trees is like opening a can of worms — it is a huge and complicated subject. Generally fruit trees are considered a higher maintenance adventure than other gardening endeavors, but the rewards are oh-so-sweet.
Compiled by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph. Reissig and T. Management of summer populations of European red mite Acari: Tetranychidae on apple with horticultural oil. Journal of Economic Entomology 87 1 :Al Dabel , F. Mensah and B. Frerot, B.
How much to use: For all fruit trees, except Citrus, use this product at the rate of to gallons per gallons of water. Apply to control the listed.
The results of the 3-year project successfully indicated that petroleum-derived spray oils can be used for effective control of a range of citrus pests including citrus leafminer, Asiatic citrus psyllid, chaff scale, red scale, citrus red mite. The results suggested that it should be possible, through use of horticultural and agricultural mineral oils and enhanced natural enemy activity, to reduce the number of pesticide sprays applied annually in China from sprays to significantly fewer sprays in most regions. The results are also valuable as references for the implementation of citrus integrated pest management programs in Australia and other citrus-growing countries. However, despite extensive use of PDSOs in citrus and other crops since the late s, few studies have been undertaken to determine their disruptive effects on orchard ecosystems or to compare their effects with those of synthetic pesticides, and these studies are limited in their sc. Skip to main content. Impact of horticultural mineral oil and synthetic pesticides on arboreal and soil fauna biodiversity within citrus orchard ecosystems.
Stylet-Oil is a technical grade white mineral oil labeled as an insecticide, fungicide and virus control product that has been formulated using the highest "Food Grade Quality" mineral oil.
More details. Frequently Asked Questions What is horticultural glue? It is a sticky non-drying glue made from natural gum resins, vegetable oil and wax. How many trees will it cover? Manufacturers recommendations vary as to the width of application, from wide to multiple narrow glue beads.